The "Stoaberg": There is so much rock here that there isn't even room for it in a federal state. The Loferer and Leoganger Steinberge stretch across the Tyrol - Salzburg border region, and anyone who decides to visit the area will be faced with a problem first and foremost: Where to start? Rock wherever you look: the Waidringer Steinplatte with its ultra-compact slab armor here, the Breithorn with its almost 40 (drilled!) pitches there, climbing gardens are scattered everywhere anyway.
Welcome to the endless rock: climbing on the Steinplatte, photo: Michael Meisl
In short: subtle overload. So it's best to concentrate on one category first: Would you prefer a leisurely sport climb or to spend the whole day on the wall and do something "alpine"? Both are excellent here. Once you have made this decision, you can read on: We introduce you to the best spots in the region. Which is quite difficult, because you can climb brilliantly almost everywhere here. Nevertheless: a best of "Stoaberg"!
Steinberge: Best of sport climbing 1. climbing gardens on the Waidringer Steinplatte
Bombenfels on the Steinplatte, photo: Michael Meisl
You could write your own book just about the Steinplatte (which means could - local hero and full steam ahead climber Adi Stocker has done just that, the Steinplatte climbing guide is highly recommended): from crisp multi-pitch routes to enjoyable sport climbing routes, everything can be found here. The lowest common denominator: rock par excellence!
The Steinplatte is a seven-kilometre-long reef limestone bar, with rockfalls up to 200 meters high. In addition to the multi-pitch routes (see below), there are also areas with concentrated single-pitch tours, known as climbing gardens. However, the Steinplatte towers far above the valley, making it the ideal area for the fall months, as it is wonderfully exposed to the sun. On the other hand, you first have to get to the top, which is pleasantly easy either with the cable cars or via the toll road. And then walk under the rocks to the route of your choice - sport climbers will appreciate the fact that some of the most rewarding climbing gardens, such as the St. Johanner Palven or Abramakabra, are right next to the parking lot.
Approach & topos: Climbing gardens in the Waidringer Steinplatte
2. lower & upper wonderland
You can expect that with a name like that: Rock wonders without end! The "Wunderländer" are climbing gardens straight out of a picture book: brilliant rock and challenging routes, paired with a short approach. However, it is primarily the hard movers who will feel at home here, as the number of easy routes is manageable. However, there is a nearby children's climbing garden for beginners and families. The only downside in the land of wonders: the wall stays wet for longer after rain showers and the holes continue to drip for a long time. So it's better to wait for a longer period of good weather in spring or fall and then attack at full speed!
Approach & Topo: Lower & Upper Wonderland
3rd Little Verdon
Well, here's another area with a pompous name: It's not for nothing that the Little Verd on is reminiscent of its big brother in France; climbing has been going on here since the 1980s. It is therefore probably the most traditional climbing area in the area, the climbing is correspondingly technically demanding and the ratings are still rather "hard". However, this does not detract from the beauty of the lines!
Approach & Topo: Little Verdon
Steinberge: Best of multi-pitch routes 1st Waidringer Steinplatte
Climbing on the Waidringer Steinplatte in the Steinberge, here the route "Ende der Sonne" (7a), photo: Michael Meisl
The Steinplatte again - but a best-of of the region would not be complete without also paying tribute to the multi-pitch tours on the mighty Steinplatte. Whether in the central part of the wall or further over at Wemeteigen - you'll find well-secured routes everywhere. Many even say that the best rock in Tyrol can be found up here. Combined with the panorama of the Loferer Steinberge behind you, the area is an endless Mecca for motivated alpine climbers!
Approach & topo: Waidringer Steinplatte
2nd Breithorn
End ... never? 38 pitches of bomb rock! Photo: Adi Stocker
Even if another superlative has to be used: The "EndeNie" route on the Breithorn is one of the longest enjoyable routes in the Eastern Alps - 38 pitches of bolt-secured plaisier climbing! It's almost unimaginable that the solid and sometimes painfully rough rock accompanies you over the distance of the entire route - but "Longlines" grandmaster Adi Stocker has once again impressively demonstrated his almost superhuman instinct for the perfect line here. Including the ascent and descent, it is of course a (more than?) day-long undertaking, provided you have a sense of alpine romance! If you have it: off to the "EndeNie"!
Approach & topo: EndeNie, Breithorn
You should be prepared for a certain amount of material wear on 38 pitches! Photo: Adi Stocker
