The Arlberg region with St. Anton has always been known for sports with long poles - the nickname "cradle of skiing" must first be earned. But when the snow melts in spring, many a gem emerges from underneath: the finest Arlberg rock.
Then St. Anton also becomes a worthwhile destination in summer: with a chalk bag instead of an airbag, with climbing shoes instead of ski boots. The climbing meccas with their streams of pilgrims can be found elsewhere in Tyrol, but in summer, the Arlberg can still be called an "insider tip". And it is precisely on hot summer days that you will be happiest here: either far down and deep inside the gorge or high up and with a great panorama.
1st Best of sport climbing: Schnanner Gorge
Water as a defining element: sport climbing in the Schnanner Gorge near St. Anton am Arlberg, photo: Michael Meisl | Climbers Paradise
If you march into the Schnanner Gorge with a rope and quickdraws, you will feel one thing above all: lots and lots of energy. The torrent has done a lot of work over millions of years, cutting through the rock and creating an ideal playground for us climbers. The approach through the narrow gorge is spectacular, with rock wherever you look. Once inside, there is an ideal sport climbing area with 42 great routes of all levels of difficulty. The very easy three routes are ideal for beginners and are located outside the gorge. Deeper in, you can get your money's worth up to the seventh French grade. All in all, a place with a lot of character and wild water as the defining element.
It can also get hot in the Schnanner Klamm: Florian Heuber in "Hot Chocolate" (7b+), photo: Michael Meisl | Climbers Paradise
Topos & approach: Schnanner Klamm climbing garden
2nd Best of multi-pitch: Darmstädter Hütte
The Darmstädter Hütte high above St. Anton am Arlberg, photo: Simon Schöpf
Another well-known insider tip should be praised here first: The Darmstädter Hütte serves the best dumplings in the world. Yes, the world! And please remember this as motivation when you get on your mountain bike in St. Anton and have a good 1,000 meters of altitude ahead of you. That's a stretch! At the end, everyone will be happy about one or maybe even three prize-winning dumplings before they actually hit the rocks. Or you can ask an electric motor for help, of course.
The climbing gardens around the Darmstädter Hütte offer rewarding rock climbing in a magnificent setting, photo: Simon Schöpf
No matter how you get to the top, one thing is certain: the impressive high mountain basin is bursting with climbing opportunities. Around 70 single-pitch routes can be found scattered across seven climbing gardens, and the unruly rock behind the hut invites you to enjoy multi-pitch climbing. There is, for example, the eastern Faselfadspitze with its seven rewarding routes in primary rock up to 150 meters long.
More about the climbing routes around the Darmstädter Hütte.
3rd Best of via ferrata: Arlberg via ferrata (D)
Dancing with the ridge: on the Arlberg via ferrata, photo: Bernd Ritschel / TVB St. Anton am Arlberg
Almost via ferrata history: Alongside the Martinswand via ferrata, the Arlberg via f errata was the very first in Tyrol. And the route is correspondingly spectacular: always along the ridge! With one decisive advantage: the panorama is fantastic on both sides. However, the via ferrata should not be underestimated: the difficulty level "D" is already at the upper end of the scale, and the exposure and length make the climb an alpine undertaking overall. The descent from the Weißschrofenspitze is also quite a challenge. But if you're up to the via ferrata: it doesn't get any better than this!
Topo & approach: Arlberg via ferrata (D)
