The calm after the storm: this always applies to the Paznaun Valley when the snow begins to melt and spring arrives in the valley. The winter hustle and bustle around Ischgl calms down again, the landscape and the people catch their breath. And the more the white disappears, the more rock appears on the mountains of the Silvretta: and the climbing heart rejoices.
Rock paradise with a view: Bouldering in the Silvapark high above Galtür in Paznaun, photo: Simon Schöpf
World-class athlete Bernd Zangerl must have felt the same way when he first spotted the huge boulder field above Galtür, at the very back of the valley. Where others see a huge scree slope, he saw a bouldering area with almost endless possibilities. And when the pictures of his test pieces "Anam Cara" and "Memento" went around the world, Paznaun became a fixed point on climbers' world maps. But good high mountain rock can also be found in other places and the Paznaun is also worth a trip with a rope. We introduce you to the best spots in the region!
1st bouldering: Silvapark, Galtür
In the middle of the Silvretta: high alpine bouldering in the Silvapark, photo: Simon Schöpf
The huge rock world below the Ballunspitze is undisputedly the place to be in the warm summer months: When every ledge down in the valley has long been greasy, the grip up at almost 2,000 meters is finally perfect. The selection of bouldering routes of all levels of difficulty is also second to none, as is the alpine ambience. There is even a separate children's bouldering area, which is unique in the Alps. The rocks here are lower and the bouldering area is nice and flat. Practice early!
A different kind of playground: the children's area in Silvapark, photo: Simon Schöpf
175 boulder problems in 7 sectors have been mapped so far, and the trend is rising. Whether it's a maximally powerful one-move wonder or an enduring highball, Silvapark got it all. There's just one thing you mustn't forget with all this rocky excellence: Just do nothing and look at the landscape. Because while other bouldering areas like to hide in the forest, Silvapark presents itself on a silver platter, way up high.
Topos & approach: Silvapark, Galtür
2. sport climbing: Kletterarena Jamtal
Climbing arena Jamtal, photo: TVB Paznaun
And once again it's all the way to the top: The Jamtal climbing arena is even higher than the Silvapark, at an altitude of over 2,100 meters. Of course, a three-hour ascent for a climbing garden sounds incredibly long, but right next to it is the fantastic Jamtalhütte, an ideal base camp for warm days. And the hiking options are just as varied. And the dumplings!
Topos & approach: Jamtal climbing arena
3. multi-pitch routes: Paulcketurm, Jamtal
Topo of the Paulcketurm in Jamtal, Topo: Climbers Paradise
Would you like a little more? Yes? Then this easy multi-pitch route takes you up to over 3,000 meters to the Paulcketurm far up in the Jamtal - 3,072 meters high, no doubt about it. The view in this wild environment full of rugged rocks is correspondingly spectacular. The stances and some intermediate bolts are drilled, but the distances are sometimes greater, so a few friends and wedges can't hurt here. Four lengths in the fourth grade (4+), what more could you want?
Topo & approach: Paulcketurm, Jamtal