A location that obliges: The Seefeld plateau is nestled right between two of the great Tyrolean climbing Dorados. To the west: the Wetterstein mountains, where a number of well-known names from the scene - from Hermann Buhl to Wolfgang Güllich - have left their mark on the Schüsselkarspitze and the surrounding area. To the east: the Karwendelgebirge, Austria's largest nature park and an equally important name in the country's climbing history. Somehow it is clear that climbing has always been a way of life on the Seefeld plateau.
Bombenfels: Chinese Wall climbing garden near Leutasch on the Seefeld Plateau, photo: Michael Meisl
A best-of about the alpine climbing routes in the Karwendel and Wetterstein could fill entire books, but we want to concentrate on the more easily accessible, smaller walls: Sport climbing! The Olympiaregion with its five municipalities of Leutasch, Mösern-Buchen, Reith, Scharnitz and Seefeld is also at the forefront in this area. Not least thanks to the climbing pioneer and mountain photographer Heinz Zak from Scharnitz, who not only left his mark on the region with his famous pictures, but also with the routes he climbed for the first time. We introduce you to the most rewarding areas of the plateau.
1st Chinese Wall climbing garden
You don't have to fly all the way to Beijing to make a pilgrimage to the Great Wall of China: the Tyrolean version may not be quite a thousand kilometers long, but at 150 meters, it is a lot higher than its Asian counterpart. And for any climber, it's the more interesting wonder of the world anyway, with over 150 routes waiting to be repeated.
Hanging out with a view: the Tyrolean version of the Great Wall of China, photo: Michael Meisl
It is actually surprising that the "Wall", as it is often reverently called, was only developed relatively late. After all, there is the finest kind of Wetterstein limestone close to the valley, which can be reached in a comfortable 20-minute ascent from Leutasch. In any case, you should be able to get a firm grip on this climbing garden: There are only a few routes below the 7th level of difficulty here. The wall is therefore reserved for hard movers, but the range of routes extends from technical wall climbing to the heavily overhanging Lochwand. The south-facing orientation of the routes makes autumn the ideal time of year, while in summer you get the shade you were hoping for from late afternoon.
Approach & topos: Chinese Wall
2nd climbing garden Mauerbogen
Compact limestone at the Mauerbogen climbing garden. Photo: Climbers Paradise
The Mauerbogen offers what is in short supply on the Great Wall of China: beautiful routes in the lower and medium grades of difficulty. The approach is similarly easy and you can reach the wall in around 15 minutes. There are a good 30 south-facing routes here, some of which are intermediate; if you still haven't had enough, you can take on the upper, more difficult part of the wall. The rock is flat and compact, so a good foot technique is an advantage. Rumor has it that the routes here are rated "hard". So it's worth taking it easy!
Approach & topo: Mauerbogen
3rd climbing garden Flämenwandl
The Flämenwandl next to the Leutascher Ache, an ideal family climbing area, photo: Climbers Paradise/Mauerfix
For those who want to take it down a gear: the Flämenwandl really is an ideal beginner's area. Idyllically situated next to the Leutascher Ache, barbecue areas included, the Flämenwandl was developed by a Belgian drilling team together with the local Mauerfix climbing club. The easy, well-secured routes and the short, flat approach make the climbing garden an ideal family climbing area. The parking lot is the same as for the Great Wall of China - so if you still haven't had enough after the Flämenwandl, you can easily go one better at the top of the wall.
Approach & topo: Flämenwandl
