Firm, solid rock, countless cool spots and so many brilliant routes that it's hard to know where to start with a "best of" the Ötztal. But here is an attempt to provide a good overview of the most beautiful sport climbing gardens and multi-pitch tours.
There are so many brilliant spots in the rock mecca of Ötztal that somehow everything is best-of-worthy. But that should remain our luxury concern. If you want to feel solid rock under your fingertips and travel to Ötztal to do so, you can't go far wrong.
Golden granite in Niederthai: Ötztal at it's best, photo: Simon Schöpf
In addition to the bomb-proof granite gneiss in the otherwise rather lime-dominated Tirolerlandl, the Ötztal is particularly impressive due to its sheer wealth of variation. Shady high summer spots deep in the fairytale forest, south-facing winter destinations, semi-shady transitional crags: everything thrives here in a small space, all destinations offer pretty good climbing. Nevertheless, a few of the climbing gardens stand out. We try to make a subjective but well-founded selection here.
Ötztal: Best of sport climbing 1. Niederthai
If you wanted to design a top spot on the drawing board - this is what it would look like. If you read about Niederthai, you will inevitably read something like "huge granite boulders scattered in a fairytale forest". You have to say: it's true. There really is no better way to describe the area. So: off to the fairytale forest, the pump is yours for the taking!
Let's just say, fairytale forest. And damn good granite gneiss, photo: Simon Schöpf
2nd Engelswand
We're not describing any insider tips here. The Engelswand hasn't been one for a long time. But there's no need to wonder why: a beautifully flat cow meadow for belaying, children's playground included, ingenious tours that cover the entire range of difficulty, access suitable for baby carriages. As popular as ever, and still: rightly so!
Info & topos: Engelswand/Tumpen
3rd Oberried
This is what idyll looks like: Oberried, photo: Simon Schöpf
When the cow nibbles on the end of your rope with relish: almost an everyday scene from the Oberried climbing garden near Längenfeld. The cows were there first, now we monkeys are climbing in their living room - it's our own fault. But if you can keep the herds of cows and their ravenous appetites in check, Oberried is the perfect family-friendly climbing garden with dream tours to melt away. Simply good.
Info & topos: Oberried/Längenfeld
All sport climbing areas in Ötztal at a glance.
Ötztal: Best of multi-pitch routes 1st Nösslach
You can only laugh at so much good rock, photo: Simon Schöpf
The routes here have such beautiful names that you simply have to climb them: "Strada del Sole" (7), "Utopia" (8-) or "Träumerei" (7-). Almost every meter here is nothing else, short approach, easy descent, brilliant panorama. The fact that the routes here are almost sport climbing style explains the popularity of this impressive wall.
2nd Burgsteinerwand
Where the Ötztal opens up again: the Burgsteinerwand is a small, fine multi-pitch area. Here you are a bit far away from the sport climbing scene. Nevertheless, the routes are drilled for sport climbing. The rock is top-notch as usual, and whether you're fluttering through the "Swallow's Nest" (7) or climbing the "Black Wall" (8) - multi-pitch routes don't get any better than this!
3rd Geierwand
Until the vultures come for us: "Nebraska" (6b+), photo: Simon Schöpf
The Geierwand now stands out. Firstly in terms of location, because it's not in the Ötztal, but still out in the Inn Valley. And secondly, because the rock is limestone and not gneiss, and not always completely solid. But why the Geierwand is still here: you will rarely find such well-bolted routes on so many pitches. And even if you have to trudge through a large rock band with lots of gravel in the middle, routes such as "In the Eye of the Vulture" or "Nebraska" still offer surprisingly brilliant climbing sections. And pure sunshine anyway!
