When you think of climbing hotspots in Tyrol, the first places that come to mind are the Ötztal, the Zillertal or the Wilder Kaiser. But Nauders? Kaunertal? Is there anything there at all? Reason enough for a voyage of discovery!
One thing first: yes, there is. A hell of a lot of good rock. And that is probably the region's greatest strength: the fact that it is still largely unknown on the climbing world map, that you can still climb your routes here in peace and quiet in the brilliant primary rock. Especially climbers who feel comfortable at lower grades: There are lots of great beginner routes in this corner of Tyrol. But not only! We present the most rewarding areas for sport climbing and multi-pitch routes in the three-country region.
Best of sport climbing 1st Laimo (Kaunertal)
Bombproof granite: Laimo climbing garden in the Tyrolean Kaunertal, photo: Michael Meisl | Climbers Paradise
Start with a real gem: the Laimo climbing garden would probably be one of the "best of" even in the Zillertal. Ingenious granite climbing in up to 35-metre-long endurance hammers - the hard movers will be happy here. With its east-facing orientation and an altitude of 1,700 meters above sea level, this is a brilliant summer area for hot days. However, there is little you can do in Laimo without proper forearm fatigue - most of the routes are in the 7th and 8th French grade. But if you are up to it, you are guaranteed to be happy on this exquisite rock gourmet despite the half-hour approach. And without the hustle and bustle of "Ewige Jagdgründe" or "Oberried".
Topos & approach: Laimo, Kaunertal
2nd climbing garden Nauders
Conveniently located next to the road: the Nauders climbing garden, photo: TVB Nauders Tiroler Oberland.
50 routes, from third to eighth grade - and all located directly on the old Via Claudia Roman road. No wonder the Nauders climbing garden is so popular, thanks to its one-minute approach. For those who like to hang on a little longer to get the circulation going: It's a 20-minute hike from Nauders to the rocks (hiking trail no. 13). Have you ever seen tanks climbing from above? Then it's about time! The climbing garden is located on the grounds of the Nauders Museum Association.
Topos & approach: Nauders climbing garden
3rd climbing garden Fernergries, Kaunertal
High alpine idyll: the beginners' climbing garden Fernergries in the Kaunertal, photo: TVB Kaunertal
At the very back of the Kaunertal is an idyllic area for beginners and families: the Fernergries climbing garden, also the largest in the valley with its 44 routes. Lots of four- and five-pitch routes on polished primary rock and a five-minute approach - it doesn't get any easier than this! And at an altitude of almost 2,000 meters and in an alpine environment, including a waterfall next to it - it doesn't get any more beautiful!
Topos & approach: Fernergries climbing garden, Kaunertal
Best of multi-pitch climbing
When it comes to multi-pitch climbing in the region, the following applies: individual remote lines instead of a large, concentrated range of routes. A certain amount of ambition and willingness to approach is required for all tours here, but you will be rewarded with almost guaranteed solitude in a wild and romantic setting!
1st Hidden Paradise (7), Kaunertal
The name says it all: Hidden in any case, paradise anyway. A proud 15 pitches in solid primary rock, nicely north-facing for the hot days, varied to boot, and the exit of the tour is at almost 2,900 meters above sea level. And it gets right down to business: four 7-pitch lengths have to be mastered at the start of "Hidden Paradise", but once you've mastered them, you'll reach easy terrain at the top. Top!
Topo & approach: Hidden Paradise (7), Kaunertal
2nd Dreck im Crack (8-), Kleiner Dristkogel, Kaunertal
Looks more clean than dirty: "Dreck im Crack", Kaunertal, photo: Barbara Pöll
The name is hopefully not the program here: the dirt in the crack has already been cleaned out, instead steep slab climbing awaits in the water-eroded primary rock. And quartz cuttings instead of dirt! All in all, a rewarding alpine undertaking, but one that requires the safe use of mobile belay devices. The belays and some intermediate bolts are drilled on this 5-pitch tour.
Topo & approach: Dreck im Crack (8-), Kaunertal
3rd Dawinspitze, Bockgartenköpfe
Dawinspitze multi-pitch area, Kaunertal, photo: Barbara Pöll
Here, for once, there are more routes for the approach: The Dawinspitze is dominated by the finest Rätkalk. Florian Schranz and his friends have worked hard here and opened up a total of 7 challenging multi-pitch routes. From 7- to 9 you can do it here!
Topo & approach: Bockgartenköpfe, Dawinspitze
