Kufstein is an excellent home base for ambitious climbers. Not only is it just a stone's throw from the Wilder Kaiser with its sheer endless selection of alpine and sport climbing routes. It's even closer: the Geisterschmiedwand, one of the most traditional climbing gardens in Tyrol, rises out of the ground like a natural city wall right on the edge of the town.
Who can find the rocks in Kufsteinerland? Photo: Vanmey Photography
The wall can also be easily reached on foot or by bike from Kufstein after work. And despite its proximity to the city, it has one unbeatable advantage: peace and quiet. Or at least almost, because the idyllic Kaiserbach stream babbles past here and the Geisterschmiedwand is located in the Kaisertal nature reserve. And anyone who clips the deflector in the last sunlight high above the rooftops of Kufstein knows why the word "local recreation" was invented! But there are also other worthwhile destinations around the town - we introduce you to the best sport climbing crags.
1st Geisterschmiedwand
Markus Bendler in the "Wagnis" (8c) of the Geisterschmiedwand near Kufstein, photo: Michael Meisl
You can leave it at that: The Geisterschmiedwand was one of the early top spots in Tyrol, if not the sport climbing world at the time. Limits were pushed here in the 1980s, "Wagnis Orange" can be found here, one of the first 8c routes in the world. Multiple national climbing champion Stefan Fürst was finally able to climb the extension of this route in redpoint in 1996 after a good 60 project days, and the route "Qui" (9a+) is still one of the most challenging in the world today. A proud 23 years (!) after the first ascent, Adam Ondra managed the second repetition (we recommend the video worth watching), and in 2020 Roland Hemetzberger also clipped the redpoint.
The best "sundowner" in Kufsteinerland is the upper part of the Geisterschmiedwand. Alex Rieser in the "Verbindung" (7c+), photo: Michael Meisl
There are a good 60 routes, mostly of higher grades, in the small limestone bolt of the Geisterschmiedwand. Power and good foot technique are essential here!
Close to the Geisterschmiedwand - just behind the gravel works - is the second "home climbing garden" of the Kufsteiners: Sparchen. Here, too, most of the routes are in the upper difficulties and there are also great stories behind the names: "Tequila" was the first 8a route in Tyrol!
Approach & topo: Geisterschmiedwand
2nd Morsbach
A place to feel good: The Morsbach climbing garden near Kufstein, photo: Klettercamp Salewa Ebbs, Sportalpen Marketing
In Morsbach, you can also climb in historical footsteps: according to tradition, Franz Ploner climbed his traverses here back in the 1920s to practise for the big walls "over there" in the Kaiser. In the 1960s, the area became a training ground for the Austrian army before Gerhard Hörhager opened the "Guana" route in the early 1990s. Rated 10+, it was probably one of the most difficult in the world at the time.
One of the first climbing gardens in Tyrol, the easier routes have been climbed accordingly. However, you shouldn't let this put you off, as the place with benches and tables next to the rock face is very cozy. What's more, you can find pretty much everything here, from beginner routes to test pieces - rarely do two extremes meet so directly. Morsbach is ideal for the warmer months of the year, with the added bonus that the nearby Pfrillsee lake offers refreshments in summer!
Approach & topo: Morsbach climbing garden
3rd climbing garden Sebi
Kufstein by night, photo: Michael Meisl
And here is the contrast climbing garden to the Geisterschmiedwand and Sparchen: Kufsteinerland can also be cozy, and the Sebi family climbing garden is the best example of this. Most of the routes here are in the fifth degree of difficulty, some are even easier. The Sebi is an old quarry that was drilled into for climbing. The short approach is also suitable for most children, although you will have to put up with some road noise.
Approach & Topo: Climbing garden Sebi
