Sometimes a hashtag actually says something: #climberscity, for example. The Tyrolean capital of Innsbruck uses this attribute to position itself in the digital media, and with good reason: there are probably few cities in the world that have such a dense concentration of strong climbers. Even when you stroll through Innsbruck's old town, you get the feeling that somehow everyone here is ready to get on a route at a moment's notice. And that is exactly what makes the spirit of the city, this feeling of activity always in the air.
Climbing world champion and Innsbruck local Jakob Schubert in the Jungle Book, Martinswand, photo: Michael Meisl
It makes sense: even if you're in the middle of the city, you can see the rocks in all directions. Up on the Nordkette, over on the Martinswand, below the Nockspitze. And then there's the newly built Innsbruck Climbing Center, one of the most modern climbing halls in the world, where top international athletes come to climb. Yes, the scene is lively in Innsbruck, it has even been claimed here that the homo vertikalis innsbruckiansis is a subspecies of the Inntalkraxler at home here. And quite a few representatives have probably moved here themselves because of Tyrol's ingenious rock diversity and then somehow got stuck.
You don't have to travel all the way to the Zillertal or the Wilder Kaiser to enjoy great rock climbing, much is close by in Innsbruck and can even be reached by bike. Innsbruck simply rocks. We give you a brief overview of the most rewarding meters of rock in and around the "Alpine capital" of Innsbruck!
Innsbruck: Best of sport climbing 1st Jungle Book, Martinswand
Bouldering ace Anna Stöhr pulling the ledge in the Dschungelbuch climbing garden, Martinswand, photo: Michael Meisl
Where world-class athletes meet world-class rock: The Jungle Book is just one of many climbing gardens in the Martinswand, a good ten-minute drive west of Innsbruck. But it is definitely the largest and richest in tradition: with routes such as "Dschungelfieber" (8c/+), the Dschungelbuch was the epicenter of Tyrolean sport climbing in the 1980s and 1990s, and the level was already incredibly high back then. The difficult routes here are dominated by tough ledge climbing on small holds, but even a 7- can be surprisingly challenging. Nevertheless, there are always rewarding routes in the medium difficulty levels. However, projecting is only recommended here if the grip on the rock is good, cool temperatures and a light wind are ideal. The area is south-facing and at the bottom of the Inn Valley, which makes the "jungle" an ideal fall and winter area.
Tyrolean by choice Jorg Verhoeven in the Jungle Book, photo: Michael Meisl
Approach & topo: Jungle Book, Martinswand
2. climbing arena Seegrube, Nordkette
Katha Saurwein in the Seegrube climbing arena high above her home town of Innsbruck, photo: Simon Schöpf
Seen from below, you wouldn't think that the Nordkette, which dominates the cityscape of Innsbruck, has solid rock anywhere. Primarily brittle Karwendel rock, that's the impression from a distance. But if you take a closer look at the rocks, you will repeatedly find islands of bombproof limestone. For example, just above the mountain station of the Nordkettenbahn, at the top of the Seegrube. Only opened up a few years ago, the climbing arena offers the most ingenious, super-sharp hole climbing at 2,000 meters, with the city at your feet!
Approach & topo: Seegrube climbing arena
3rd Höttinger Quarry, Innsbruck
The Hötting quarry above #climberscity Innsbruck, photo: Simon Schöpf
You often hear people criticizing the quarry, saying that you can't climb there at all, the routes are so slimmed down. True, the patina has become thick after all these years, even Hermann Buhl has done his training meters here - but don't let that put you off! The conglomerate rock of the Höttinger Breccie definitely takes some getting used to, especially the first few meters. However, the routes here are still worthwhile lines, with one huge advantage: a good 30-second approach, quickly reached by bus and bike. And which city has a small, fine climbing area available as a local recreation area? What's more, with a flat meadow at the base of the wall, providing climbing families with an ideal outdoor playground? Honor the Breccie!
Approach & topo: Höttinger Steinbruch
Innsbruck: Best of multi-pitch routes 1st Jungmannschaftswand, Ehnbachklamm gorge
In the "Jungmannschaftsriss" (7) in the front Ehnbachklamm near Zirl, photo: Simon Schöpf
It's impressive how the "Jungmannschaftswandl" rises up in front of you after you have hiked a few bends along the narrow path into the Ehnbachklamm gorge. The nine routes are all rewarding, even if some of them are already well climbed. The "Jungmannschaftsriss" is a 7th degree classic, "Jimmy's Kanal" a popular first multi-pitch tour. You can easily descend on foot.
Approach & topo: Jungmannschaftswand, Zirl
2nd Martinswand
High above the Inn Valley: In the "Tschi-Tschi" (8), Martinswand, photo: Simon Schöpf
The "Innsbruck home area" for multi-pitch climbers is the Martinswand, which towers high above Zirl. There really is an almost inexhaustible area here for the knights of the vertical: from easy, well-bolted slab routes (e.g. "Flying Grass", 7-) to exposed, wild alpine classics with sparse protection ("Westriss") and modern, alpine sport climbing routes (e.g. "Tschi-Tschi", 8), there is room for everything on the Martinswand. Especially the routes in the upper part of the wall (best reached via an easier slab tour from below, the approach through the scree is very "know how") are extremely strenuous for climbers who are not used to the technical, small-grip Martinswand style.
Approach & topo: Martinswand - multi-pitch routes
3rd High Munde
The Hohe Munde and its route network, photo: Climbers Paradise
The imposing Hohe Munde with its distinctive "nose" is the local mountain of Telfer, a market town 20 minutes west of Innsbruck. And the nose has it all! A destination for experienced alpine climbers who are also good with mobile safety equipment and sometimes brittle rock. The Colosseum has now established itself as an alternative to the south face, where steep but better secured alpine sport climbing dominates. However, the athletic routes still require a good dose of morale!
Approach & topos: Hohe Munde - multi-pitch routes