For a long time, the Rofan Mountains high above the Achensee - squeezed between the time-honored climbing area celebrities Karwendel and Wilder Kaiser - were only a destination for climbing exotics who stood on brittle, damp north face rock. It took until the turn of the millennium for the full potential of the area to be recognized.
Nowadays, even top international climbers say that the Rofan has the best limestone in Tyrol, the quality of which is otherwise only found in the south of France. The walls on the picturesque Rofan plateau are currently undergoing a second renaissance: the location is back in fashion, new routes and climbing gardens are being developed. Particularly in summer, when the heat is once again blistering down below, the rocks at an altitude of over 2,000 m are an ideal destination. And of course, after the work is done, the notoriously cool Achensee beckons with refreshments and gelato!
So you'll be hearing a lot more from the Rofan in the near future. Until then, we have curated the highlights of the region for you here so that you can say: off to the Rofan on the next hot summer's day!
All info & topos: Climbing around the Achensee on Climbers-Paradise!
Rofan: the top 3 for sport climbing 1st paradise
This is what paradise looks like. Achensee, Rofan, Climbers Paradise, Photo: Simon Schöpf
Here you won't find apples or snakes, but instead water-eaten, overhanging bomb rock in an environment that could hardly be more idyllic. But that should be enough for any climber's personal paradise! But you have to earn your ticket to this rock heaven, the most rewarding routes are in the 7th and 8th French grade!
2nd Edelweiss wall
The wall may be more gray than white, but it's certainly classy: vertical, challenging climbing dominates the climbing garden, and there are delicate spots in every line!
The alpine north face tours of the Hochiss, the highest peak in the Rofan and reachable from the wall in a good 30 minutes, represent the stark contrast to this: old, beaten hooks with wide spacing. That was Rofan in the old days.
3rd Streichkopf
A rock arena at 2,100 meters above sea level: an absolute top area that immediately catches the eye when you hike from the Dalfazalm to the Hochiss. However, due to its north-westerly orientation, the Streichkopf only gets sun in the late afternoon.
More sport climbing crags & topos at Achensee
Achensee: the top 3 for multi-pitch climbs 1st Klobenjoch
You could almost get a little scared of so much bomb rock. Or spend too long agonizing over the question of where to climb first. One thing is certain: In terms of rock quality, nothing comes close to this south face, whether you come up here for a crisp sport climbing tour in the steep "Eiskeller" or for one of the multi-pitch classics: it's worth it!
2nd Rotspitz
Abseiling over the Achensee: Abseiling from the Rotspitz, photo: Simon Schöpf
Hard to beat the panorama: The routes on the Rotspitz may not be the longest, but they are perhaps the most spectacular. The view down to Achensee is unique, and the short approach from the Rofan cable car does the rest. You'll be happy here.
3rd Lamsenspitze
In addition to the Rofan mountains, the area around Achensee also includes part of the Karwendel mountains, and the routes on the Lamsenspitze are a perfect introduction to the world of alpine multi-pitch routes. Just 30 minutes from the Lamsenhütte, you feel far away from the world here.
Best of via ferrata
On the steel cable with a view: on the 5-peak via ferrata in the Rofan, photo: Simon Schöpf
Spieljoch, Haidachstellwand, Hochiss, Rosskopf and Seekarlspitze: all these peaks can be climbed in one go with a large via ferrata circuit, welcome to the 5-summit via ferrata! The length of the via ferrata varies between 180 and 450 m, with a walking time of 3 to 5 hours. The variations are endless!
